Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Tiramisù, it really is a pick-me-up

Tiramisu to Italians is like banana pudding to Americans. Every family has a recipe and their personal version is AMAZING.

So, just to show that I'm no different, here is my recipe. I preface this by saying that although I'm 100% American, I've been eating tiramisu in homes all over Italy for over 30 years. You can rest peacefully in the knowledge that with this recipe you, yes you, American cook, can and will make tiramisu better than 99% of the restaurants in the United States.

Ever had a version of a classic dessert that has been 'improved' to the point of being unrecognizable? Restaurant tiramisus here (and often times over there as well) are saturated with liqueur, topped with meringues, layered with raisins, and worse. Just keep it simple and you'll be so glad you did.

Simple ingredients are also essential to arriving at that signature flavor.

Mascarpone cheese, which isn't what we think of as cheese, is number one. It's available in most main stream grocery stores like Safeway and Kroger. It's in the deli section near the special Parmesan. Check the expiration date and get the freshest you can. By the way, please don't use cream cheese. It's a different flavor and texture and not worth substituting.

Number two is the cookie. Savoiardi dry lady fingers are the traditional cookie but are sometimes hard to find. They are usually at specialty groceries or Cost Plus World Market and are really wonderful. They're really dry and hard and work perfectly.

That said, I have used a great substitute today. Strawberry Shortcake shells. Who'd have thought? Desperation is the mother of invention. Had to make tiramisu in Arizona once, and after searching 5 stores I gave up and bought these. The verdict? I expected to be sentenced to never making it again for the Sicilian for violating this sacred trust. Instead I was made to promise never to use savoiardi again. Most recently he expressed, "this tiramisu beats any I ever ate in Italy!" I don't know about that, but I'm glad he liked it!

Lastly is the espresso. You have to make espresso. Premium quality is from a real espresso pressure machine. Second quality but still good is from a stove top moka. Using good espresso powder is also essential to good flavor. A moka is available at Cost Plus as well if you're interested.

Remember: Good ingredients = good food. Simple concept.

So lets make it! You'll need:

2 packages shortcake shells (24 total) or 30-36 savoiardi cookies.
5 eggs, separated
2/3 c sugar
450 gr mascarpone (2 tubs)
2 tbsp Marsala or vanilla
Cocoa

That's it.

1. Make espresso. You'll need about 1 1/2 cups of straight strong espresso. Sweeten to taste (very important) and then dilute with cool water, adding about 1/2 c water.

2. Beat 3 of the eggwhites till stiff and set aside. The other two you can save to make a meringue tomorrow!

3. Beat separately the 5 yolks with the sugar till light and creamy. Add the Marsala and the mascarpone and beat in till creamy. Pour into the whites and fold in gently to combine.

4. Now to assemble. You'll be putting this in a glass 9x13 (or equivalent...I do two smaller ones so we get two desserts from it).
If using the shortcake, cut off the top ridge of each and first use only the flat circles at first. You'll fill in the spaces with the extra ridge pieces. Quickly put a cake in the coffee, flip over, pick up and let drip, and place in dish. You don't eat cake soup so the trick is to let it soak up some coffee but not fall apart. Same rule with the savoiardi. They'll fall apart if you soak them. Just dunk flip and drip. Fill the bottom of the pan. Don't leave spaces. Break pieces as needed to fill spots.

5. Pour in and spread out 1/2 the cream, then dust heavily with cocoa. Do one more layer of cakes dipped in coffee and then finish with the rest of the cream. Spread to fill to the edges and dust heavily with cocoa.

Store in fridge at least 6 hours and preferably overnight. So so good. A 2-3" square is plenty for anyone, but they may want seconds! Enjoy.



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